The Impact of a Few
The unexpected finds are what make traveling such fun. Almost
all the places we've visited have been owned and operated by the National Park
Service or various national foundations but for a couple of days we had the
opportunity to see just how important the efforts of everyday people can be in keeping
history alive.
Personal items left behind by Union soldiers |
Somewhere in all my reading about Civil War sites I'd read
about a unique museum off the beaten path. A little digging turned up the name:
White Oak Museum in Falmouth, Virginia. It turned out that the museum wasn't
too far from our campground in Fredericksburg so we thought we'd drive over,
spend an hour, and get on with our errands--I wanted to visit a yarn shop, we
needed to go to Costco, the kind of mundane chores you have to do even when
you're on the road. We were there when the museum opened for the day, expecting
to zip through and be on our way.
This display alone has thousands of bullets from the encampment |
Several hours later we were still there, talking with D.P.
Newton--the man who created the private museum with the help of his family and
friends--about how he acquired such an amazing collection of artifacts. It
turned out that about 140,000 men in the Union Army camped nearby for the
winter months in 1862-1863. The encampment
was in effect a city they built involving all the industries, cabins,
and services that the soldiers would need to survive the winter and prepare for
spring battles. When the Army moved from the area they left behind a treasure
trove of artifacts. Where most museums might have a few Union belt buckles, the
White Oak Museum has over 800 of them. Multiple shoes and canteens, mounds of
buttons, thousands of bullets--anything you can imagine that soldiers might use
in their camp was there. D.P. and local residents have been collecting
artifacts in the area for years and have set up wonderful displays of them in
the museum. For D.P., who was inspired
by his father to start collecting relics, the museum is clearly a labor of
love. It was also a special pleasure for Civil War geeks like us.
Glenn Trimmer gave us a tour of the park |
While we were at the museum we struck up a conversation with
Glenn Trimmer, who served as Executive Director of Friends of Stafford County
Civil War Sites, a local group who had built a new Civil War park where part of
the encampment had been. Not only did Glenn explain the history of t he land
and the park, he offered to give us a personal tour of it. We gladly turned our
"one hour" trip to the museum into a day trip that included the park
too. The park land was not a battlefield or part of the National Park system so
it's been largely overlooked by Civil War buffs, but it has some pristine
examples of the types of fortifications armies used at that time as well as the
"corduroy" roads they built from lumber. What was even more
fascinating to us was to hear how Glenn and D.P. had managed to get the park
built while facing both a lack of funds and a myriad of regulations and
requirements.
Room at the Graffiti House. Letters G and C at the top may have been George Custer. |
On another day we drove to Brandy Station Virginia to see
the Graffiti House, a building that has wall writings left by the soldiers.
Just like the White Oak Museum and the Stafford Civil War Park, the Graffiti
House only exists because of some dedicated local people. The building was in
disrepair and on the brink of being burned down for the lot when signatures and
sketches made by Civil War soldiers were discovered. Even then it's future wasn't certain but luckily,
the Brandy Station Foundation, a small local nonprofit, was able to purchase
the house and uncover the soldiers' inscriptions. The walls are covered with
names, phrases, and drawings made by soldiers using charcoal from the
fireplaces. Apparently soldiers back then were polite--there's no profanity,
only a couple of mild put-downs like "The Yanks got it good." Some of
the drawings were made by men with obvious artistic talent.
Drawing from the Graffiti House walls |
The area saw much troop movement during the war, including
the Battle of Brandy Station--the largest Cavalry battle (20,000 horses!) of
the war--and is believed to have served at various times as headquarters, hospital
and train station. One thing that makes Graffiti House special is that there
are writings from soldiers from both the
North and the South. They hold fundraisers to raise money to continue the work
of uncovering the graffiti using methods to conserve it properly.
Thanks to the efforts of these three local organizations and
the dedicated people in them, we got some truly unique insights into the lives
of Civil War soldiers that we hadn't gotten in any other place.
Inscription reading "The United States of America" |
Beautiful drawing at the Graffiti House |
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